Friday, 14 August 2009

Crabshakk


Crabshakk's a great little place. New England meets New York via the Isle of Lewis in Glasgow. On my first visit here, my dinner dates were very late and we were all going onto a Fashion Show. By the time they arrived, I was making good progress through a bottle of white wine. Ambitiously they ordered another. After wolfing down lobster and chips, most of the next bottle was still left... and we had to go. What's a chap to do? To spare the ladies embarrassment I tried my best. In hindsight, consuming a bottle of white wine in minutes is not big and it's not clever. It hit me about half way there in the taxi, as we pulled up outside the Art School I couldn't have told you my name. I was flying.

So I've been itching to come back for a proper paced sit down meal ever since. Then last night the opportunity presented itself, in a rather bizarre way. Grith, pronounced 'grit', over on a visit from Denmark, picked this up in Oddbins after going berserker in T.K.Maxx.

All raspberries and orange blossom. A few years back, passing through Gigondas, I noticed it reeked of orange blossom. The town actually smelt of it's wine. Weird. This was a good bottle, still young, with the unmistakable taste of the soil. Yes, Grith's wine was gritty. Nice. But beware Vikings bearing gifts. From some sort of Blackberry contraption this emerged.

A reminder of my great prowess at prediction and gambling.

No getting out of that, so I offered to buy lunch at Crab Shakk in settlement!

The wine list is short and quickly gets pricey. This was the cheapest bottle on the list and did the trick.

I can go for years without eating an oyster then suddenly crave them like nothing else on earth will do. At the moment it's intense. Oysters and me are having one hell of an affair. I can't get enough of them. They're always on my mind, when will I next see them, taste them, have them? "Maintenant" they whisper in my ear.....

God that was good. The girls had squid tempura and crab cakes. Both excellent. Light crunchy batter, tender squid and small but intense cakes full of crab meat.

Next up we ordered whitebait, fish club sandwich and sardines on toast.

A few Sundays ago perched at the bar here, eating oysters of course, there was some confusion as to what whitebait actually is? Rarely over £7 a kilo's the answer, so frankly this was a measly portion. They were good, as good as baby herrings and sprats get, just wish there were more. Nothing scrimpy about the fish club sandwich.

A triple decker of hot and cold smoked salmon, crab and pollock. With very nice fries on the side. Happy Viking.

"Wait a minute....you're not a sardine!"

Chef dropped one of only three sardines left and gave me this langoustine in compensation. It was delicious. Succulent, sweet, perfectly cooked. The sardines were spot on too. I love sardines but I'm not allowed to cook them anymore. Something to do with everything smelling of fish for a week afterwards...which, in fairness, it did.

Panna cottas for desert. Very correct but not quite sweet enough for me. The coffee was great. Good attention to detail. Nothing tarnishes the memory of a good meal so swift as shit espresso.

So that's Crabshakk. The best bet I ever lost. Angela, front of house, is impressive. It's cramped but that just adds to the buzz. And, whitebait gripes aside, the prices are frankly incredible for fresh Scottish seafood.

Go, go, go. But please leave a space at the bar, just big enough for one man and his current obsession... I'm missing the little iodine scented rascals already.


Crabshakk, (NOT: Crab Shakk or Crab Shack).
1114 Argyle Street,
Finnieston
Glasgow
0141 334 6127




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Sunday, 9 August 2009

Wrong


Some things in life don't seem right, they just shouldn't go together...

Another is tomatoes and wine...

All that sweet acidic mix. Just for good measure, I threw in some hot kiln smoked salmon. Smokey, oily pungency.

Then the wine. From a single vineyard in Rioja: 5.5 hectares, 46748 bottles, this one was bottle 617. Not necessarily problematic...

Though aging in new french oak barrels for 17 months could be. Surely too long for any dry white?

Well, it almost worked. The wine had nearly enough acidity to cut through the salmon and nearly enough flavour to stand up to the tomatoes. But it was just too oaky.
This was tea before heading off to the Liquid Ship...

... for another tricky match, acoustic nights and crowds.

Between songs, Nairn (Naz) is very funny, that folk club style patter. Afterwards I asked him, "Why is so much acoustic music so bloody mournful? Someone fresh from their bedroom wailing 'I don't know why she had to leave me', to which the obvious heckle is 'We do, she couldn't stand it any more!'"...
Turns out he'd just split up with his girlfriend. So there's another bad match, me and small talk. I'm off to the bedroom to write a song about it now. In the meantime, just to prove my point, here's some video from the night demonstrating the attention span of your average boozer.


Despite asking them twice I can't recall the band's name. Probably the result of something else that doesn't mix... beer and wine, unless you're German of course.



Friday, 7 August 2009

Virtual Prose


Cripes, wasn't expecting that. Actually meeting up with a proper blogger. Strewth.
All sorts of nonsense started running through my head, after all, où exactly est Wine Splodge? After the initial shock I warmed to the idea and was actually very flattered.

We arrived 10 minutes early and, by sheer fluke, bagged the best table in Stravaigin, for 4, because a journalist pal was accompanying him. The Bloody Marys were top drawer. The menu was on form too. Perfect... too perfect.. because then this chirped up.

Awe, bums. Anyway by now, rather fuelled up with adrenalin and vodka, we decided to go ahead regardless. So, this is for Douglas, his virtual three hour visit to a bit of the West End of Glasgow....
First of all what to drink? I am after all 'Wine Splodge', the wines read all so, err, conventional. Quickly squinting around, my eyes spotted and like my camera, nearly focussed, on this.

What I read was: " Mekong Sparkling Pinot Noir, fertilised by an Austrian and his brother Angus from Aberdeen, to create a bionic wine for his wedding"... now that's definitely not run of the mill!

Gorgeous, light, effervescent loveliness. Like cavorting with an alpine maid in a flower strewn meadow.
The Nasi Goreng was also excellent. Lightly spiced and with a poached egg that had been cooked to look like a testicle, how clever.

Squid with OK sauce, or was it KO sauce? Anyway, just what I was after. Spot on. Didn't go with the wine at all though.

A stroll up Great Western Road past Mellis where, of course...


...the best, ripest, runniest Gorgonzola I know, was on special offer. Next, popped into Heart Buchanan for some espresso sustenance.

A quick look for cravats and interesting shirts...

Then next stop, Ashton Lane.

Avoiding horrendous blots like 'Nude' we headed for the Ubiquitous Chip, also part of the Stravaigin family. Founded in 1971, possibly the world's first gastropub?


Alasdair Gray recently touched up his own mural, making the route to the toilet rather decorative.

Before heading off to the airport, just time for a glass of South African viognier on the new roof terrace. Thank God for the smoking ban, so many nice new spaces outdoors these days.

Cheerio Douglas, hope you enjoyed it!

Sunday, 2 August 2009

Recreationism


So my plan was to recreate a Ligurian meal, or rather my interpretation of one, and drink wine I'd brought back, served alongside other nice wines to compare. Was it really as good as it seemed on holiday? Then, after a few cancellations, I realised four of us would never make it through all the wines, and since I was determined everyone try this one, my Vermentino lives to be blogged another day..

This isn't of course Ligurian, but it's the best white I've drunk this year. An absolute belter and it's worth joining Costco just to buy it- a perfect dry Riesling. One word of warning though, it absolutely reeks of petrol. The old fashioned stuff that me and my brother would wind down the window to inhale at garages. Mature riesling is supposed to smell of petrol. Mary didn't like it, but she loved the taste. For me it was like a complex lime sorbet with hints of mint and ginger. Perfectly balanced, it danced down my throat.
What makes this wine even more stunning is the price... £8.95 for the 2005. Incredible. We drank it with a herb tart.

Herbs are big in Liguria. This was spinach, sorrel and fennel. An adaptation of a recipe in 'Leaves from the Walnut Tree'. Ann and Franco's time capsule. Franco's actually from the Marche but by some way it's the best Italian cookbook I've got so it's a good source.... probably long out of print but worth tracking down.

Despite having a big coastline, fish is a relatively recent addition to Ligurain cuisine. One article suggests this dates back to when Genoa was the biggest port in the Med. Away at sea sailors ate dried food and fish. When they came home they craved to taste the land- rabbit, herbs, baking- they gave the world pesto. Rather weirdly, now thinking about it, I didn't make any.
Main course, again inspired by both Liguria and 'The Walnut Tree', was quail stuffed with sage and wrapped in bacon, served with lentils on roasted polenta... I even made a focaccia.. supposedly a Ligurian invention too. Sage has an incredible affinity with quail. Try sniffing a raw quail, you'll see what I mean.

With it drank one of the three Rosseses reds I brought back with me.

This is a really good wine. Like mixing Burgundy with Barolo and adding a hefty splash of Bandol. Now there's an idea!!! Wrong in so many 'wine' ways, but I'm going to try it soon.
Back to Rossese, Ka Mancine, Galeae, 2008. To me the bouquet is a mix of raspberry and sherbet. Like the moment you hit the middle of a sherbet centered sweet. The palate is full, floral and oh so moorish... that's not a typo. Think rose water, hookah and hooker. It's all in there. One big souk of a glass. Gorgeous. It was in some pretty good company too.

Ross and Mary's Chianti and the second wine of St.Emilion's Chateau Grand Mayne. Both top bottles. I thought the Rossese was best. Top marks.

Finished off the meal with a chestnut and chocolate pudding which should have been decorated with strawberries and cream... but by now I couldn't be bothered.

Chestnuts are big in Liguria and Marron Glacé was apprently invented here back in the 1790s... though I'm pretty sure the French will dispute that.
Now, for anyone reading this in Glasgow, who shares my craving for seafood after drinking slightly more than necessary on a Saturday night, some really good news.

Crab Shakk in Finnieston is now open on Sunday from 12-5. Nine oysters for £11.95 washed down with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Job done.





1114 Argyle Street,
Finnieston
Glasgow
G3 8DT
0141 334 6127